A RELIGIOUS PIZZA EXPERIENCE ...Dom DeMarco at Di Farra Pizza

"Yes," Eating Pizza Made by The Maestro DOM DeMARCO

Is a Religious Experience !!!

   Much has been said of the now famed Pizzeria (DiFarra Pizza) on Avenue J in Brooklyn, New York the Capital of Thee Best Pizza in the whole United States of America, bar-none, even Manhattan. Brooklyn lays claim to the Top two Pizzerias in the country, the top of the list 1 and 2, number 1, The Best and number 2, the second best. Well no, I don't know if I should put it that way, as it sound s as one is better than the other, which is not ht e case, as they are both equally good, equally Great and equally the Best Pizza and the Best Pizzerias in the United States, though they are are little different than one another. The Pizza at both Totonno's on Neptune Avenue in Coney Island, Brooklyn, New York  and Di Farra Pizza on Avenue J in Brooklyn are both otherworldly specimens  of some the Finest Pizza on other and the Undisputed Best Pizza in America.

   Wow, got off on a tangent about both Di Farra and Totonno's when I just intended to talk about Di Farra Pizza, Dom DeMarco the Maestro of Di Farra's and the Religious experience that it is to go there, watch Dominic masterfully make Pizza after glorious Pizza (without the help of anyone else), to watch in awe and anticipation and Salivation til you finally get yours (after about a hour or hour and a half wait), you hold it in your hand like a precious baby, and then to sink your teeth into it, savoring each wondrous bite after the other. "Yes," it is truly a religious experience, that is, if you are a great lover of this wonderful invention, created in Napoli, spread throughout the the Italian Peninsular and then across the Atlantic to America from Italian Immigrants where Gennaro Lombardi opened the First Pizzeria in America on Prince Street in New York City some 100 years ago or so.

    Back to Di Farra and Pizzaiolo Extraordinaire, Mr. Dominic DeMarco. It is Dominic that makes Di Farra what it is, it certainly isn't the Pizzeria itself which is ultra plain and even appalling to some. Mr. DeMarco's pizzas are just about as close to absolute perfection in the Pizza Making World, a world in which New York City excels and has only one rival in Naples, Italy and the whole of Italy itself. Mr. De Marco has the magic touch, with perfect dough, the perfect balance of ingredients, tomato and other ingredient ratio to cheese, and this include Mr. Demarcos judicious use of Olive Oil which is right-on and a little magic touch that whoever complains about it, just does not know there Pizza and Italian Food on a whole. We Italians love our olive oil. And those who complain are unaware that it is a condiment that adds the final last touch to many dishes before they are eaten. Dominic knows this and should not be discourage against his generous use of it by those who do not understand the proper essence of the Italian Table. So please, keep your traps shut, if you don't like it don't eat it, this countries finest examples of the Pizza Art.
     And on to the religious experience of Di Farra, Dom DeMarco and the mans artistry with Pizza. There is nothing quite like it in the entire Pizza World. There does not exist, to my knowledge any place in the world that has an elderly man making a hundred plus Pizzas a day in a place that has endless lines, day and night. Pizza that are so perfect, words can not describe  People line up for greatness and artistry, and for a couple of slices of the most marvelous pizza this side of Naples, and to watch this passionate little old man work his heart out, not getting, not allowing anyone else to make a pie at his beloved Pizzeria. The man is elderly. He's worked his whole life. He makes such a magical thing that people line up each and every day to see him and eat one of his many masterpieces. With business like this, he could hire to other Pizzaiolos to help him, doubling or tripling his business and and financial intake. He could hire two guys and make pizza aloing with them, or sit back and get three guys to do it. At his age, he's entitled to. But know, Dom DeMarco loves what he does, he loves his Pizza, each and every one that passes that counter and into thousands of appreciative hands. The man feels that no one else can make a Pizza the way he does and wants to serve to his customers. No one else who has his skills, his passion and love for the Pizza, thus he does it all himself. And this my friends is the reason that going to Di Farra's to watch Dominic the maestro in action, all by himself while hundreds of people line up every day, waiting an hour and a half to two hours just to get a Pizza (not just any old Pizza mind you). "It's a Religious Experience." Truly! A show and there is nothing like it in the World, Dom DeMarco, a man and his Pizza, America's Best, and something to rival that other World Pizza Capital, Napoli.


by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

ITALIAN WINE TASTING SEASON 2011 ... SICILIAN WINE TASTING on Fifth Avenue

The ITALIAN WINE TASTING SEASON

is OFF and RUNNING

September 12 marked the beginning of the Italian Wine Tasting Season 2011 with a Sicilian Wine Tasting on Fifth Avenue and The Martin Scott Grand Portfolio Tasting at Lincoln Center a midst New York's Fashion Week.

Saw Lilly Locascio and drank some wine of Sallier de la Tour which Lilly represents along with the wines of Tasca d'Almerita and thier legendary "Rosso del Conte" which is along with Duca Enrico and Donnafugata's "Mille Una Notte" the most renowned wine of Sicily.

The Sallier de la Tour Estate is owned by cousins of the Tasca family about an hour South-West of Palermo. Lilly tasted me on their Syrah, two offerings of Nero d'Avola and their Grillo, a native white grape grown all over Sicily. The Sallier Grillo was a very pleasant wine that was clean and crisp in the mouth with taste of Pear and Zippy Grapefruit. I could just imagine myself in a Trattoria in Trapani or Cefalu quaffing the lovely wine with some Polpo alla Griglia and Pasta con Sarde. Yummm!

After hanging with Lilly for a while I went over to the Planeta table. Was hoping to see good friend Francesca Planeta, however she hadn't made this trip, neither her cousin Alessio, Planeta's Head Winemaker. PLaneta had their renowned Chardonnay, Santa Cecilia, and my "Favorite" the Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily's only DOCG wine. All three wine were showing beautifully, starting with the award winning Planeta Chardonnay which is a barrel fermented Chardonnay that drinks like a White Burgundy. Having been a New York Italian Restaurant Wine Director for a number of years, I'd often get request for a White Burgundy type wine and I'd always recommend either Planeta's Chardonnay or the celebrated top of line Antinori Wine of "Cevaro della Salla" made with a blend of 80% Barrel Fermented Chardonnay and 20% Grechetto from Antinori's fine estate in Umbria. Cevaro della Sala is the wine that has won more Tre Bicchiere Awards than any other wine in Italy and the Planeta Chardonnay has been among The Wine Spectator Top 20 Wines of the World on several occasions. Anyway, on this day, the Planeta Chardonnay was as tasty and consistent as ever, lush, full, and totally enjoyable. Just think of a great White Burgundy.

On to the Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria which recently received DOCG status, Italy's highest ranking. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a wine that is a blend of teo great native Sicilian Grapes of Frappato and Nero d'Avola. The Nero d'Avola is a grape that is rich with concentrated black fruit flavors of Blackberries, Black Courrants, and Casis and is a lot like Cabernet Sauvignon, or I might say almost a cross between Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. A lot of big, powerful ripe fruit to say the least. Frappato on the other hand has lots of fruit flavor as well, except that the weight is much lighter than the Nero d'Avola and the fruit characteristics instead of being concentrated black fruits, Frappato's fruit flavors are of delicate red berries and mainly of Rasberries with little floral notes weaved in, just hinting of wild flowers. The combination of these native Sicilian Grapes makes for a wonderfully unique wine, one of which my clients have always loved and had been grateful to for introducing the wine to them. The Planet Cerasuolo di Vittoria is made from 60% nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato. The wine is such a joy and absolute pleasure to drink, all I can say is that if you've never had it, don't walk, but run to your wine merchant of choice and get yourself a bottle, or two, or three. I guarantee, you absolutely adore it.

My most wonderful suprise of the day was a wonderful wine from the historical house of the Duca di Salaparuta who had on hand for tasting a Nero d'Avola, a white Inzolia, and Lavico, a wine made of Nerello Mascalese a grape very prominent on the Vulcanic slopes of Mt Etna on the East end of Sicily. This wine blew my mind. I'm always on the lookout for Etna Rosso and Nerello Mascalese which are one in the same. Etna Rosso will be made mostly with Nerello Mascalese with a small percentage of Nerello Cappuccio. The Lavico of 100% Nerello Mascalese is a wonderful gem of a wine of medium body and packed with wonderful Red Berry fruit flavors. The wine is in perfect balance, just the right weight, full of flavor, no harsh tannin's and just the right amount of acidity. The price is a steal, and this wine gets my top value for the dollar prize of the tasting. It sell for $10 or less and can match up to wines that are 2, 3, and 4 times its prize. This wine is a joy to drink, and as I said before, run, don't walk and get yourself a few bottles. Yes, you will adore this one as well.

Well, a good time at Vini Di Sicilia wine tasting and off to Lincoln Center and the Martin Scott Grand Portfolio Tasting 2011. Walked, say friend Natalie and Tom Hubbard and up comes La grand Orange himself Rusty Staub. We chatted with Rusty and took a photo-op and then it was off to tasting. Martin Scott does have a great portfolio filled with a ton of very good to great wine from every corner of the globe; California, France, Spain, Portugal, and elsewhere including quite a nice array from Italy with some of the Top Producers of the Peninsular. Started off tasting a few wines from one of Italy's greatest white wine producers of Schiopetto from Collio in Friuli. Tasted the Schiopetto Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Friuliano which where all textbook examples of the varietals. I moved on to taste the sparkling wines of Contratto to drink the Brut 2007 Vintage as well as the Brut Rose 2007. Both quite tasty, the Brut 2007 was drinking pretty well and brought back memories of drinking the 1990 Vintage with owner Antonella Boccino at a special Wine Luncheon and Tatsting at Barolo Restaurant in Soho back in 1997. The Lucheon was phenomenal. I met my friend Renzo Raspiocoli that day, the long time Wine Director of Barolo Restaurant. So with the fine lunch we drank that day Contratto Brut 1990, their superb Gavi "Arnel", Panta Ray Barbera, Barbera "Solus Ad," and Contratto's Barolo Cerequio 1990. Wow, what a lineup.

So now I moved on to E. Pira e Figli Barolo Cannubi 2007, a stellar bottle. Loved it, as I did the Barolo Via Nuova 2007. On to another excellent Barolo, that of G.D. Varjra and theior Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2006. Very fine and a classic Barolo example poured by the affable Giuseppe Vaira.

Now on to my good buddy Gianluca Grasso of Elio Grasso, whose wines are of the benchmark in everything they do. Grasso makes one of my favorite Dolcetto's of all, and their 2010 Dolcetto d'Alba is spot on as usual. This wine does not see any wood in its fermentation or aging and is just pure unadulterated Dolcetto grapes at their best. Yum! on to the Elio Grasso Nebbiolo Langhe 2010. Again a totally stainless steel wine (No Wood contact), and just tasting of perfect fresh fruit. Now it's on to one of all Barolodoms great Barolos in the Elio Grasso Barolo Runcot. We tasted the 2004 Vintage which is aged 6 years before release. All I can say is "Awesome Awesome Awesom." Get the message.

I tasted the fine Barbaresco of Alberto Gresy of Marchesi di Gresy , who for my money makes thee best of the best of Barbaresco. "Forget about it Angelo," if you know what I mean. The Barbarescos of Marchesi di Gresy are the best of Barbaresco. Nuff said!

And if this wasn't enough, and wouldn't you think it would be, I then met up with Luciana Vietti to tast a few of their renowned Barolo Crus of; Castiglione Falleto and Brunate, along with their Barbaresco Masseria. All outstanding.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

ITALIAN-AMERICAN ....... What is It?

WHAT is Italian ... ITALIAN-AMERICAN




    There has long been a debate, fights, and Mud-Slinging in regards to Italian and Italian-American
food served in restaurants in New York and the rest of the U.S.. Culinary Snobs, people who "Think" they know what they are talking about and what not. I can set the record straight, being an
 Italian-American who has been eating Italian and Italian-American food for more than forty years, who has been professional Chef and someone who has eaten all over Italy on some 15 trips to the great peninsular. In addition to studying Italian Food in Italy for some 25 years, I am constantly reading all sorts of articles , cookbooks, and historical facts on this subject, in addition to being one of the countries foremost authorities on Italian Wine.
   Anyway, let me tell you. I myself was once a uninformed Food Snob who badmouthed and was slightly disdainful of unauthentic Italian food being served in restaurants all over the city. That's just in restaurants. Of course I Loved eating Sunday Sauce, Eggplant Parmigiano, and Meatballs that my aunts made at our frequent family get together s. And on the occasions that we weren't at one of the family's homes but in an Italian restaurant in Lodi or Garfield, I usually ordered Chicken  or Veal Parmigiano. Yes I loved it, but these dishes, for me at the time (1985-1993) had their place, and it was not in the kitchen or on the plates of any serious Italian Restaurant in Manhattan.
   Eventually as I learned more of the history of food in New York, Italy, and the World, I realized that there was actually a real true Italian-American Cuisine and that it was completely valid.
  Do you realize that if you think there is not a true valid Italian-American Cuisine, then you also must concede that there is No True French Cuisine, because the origins of what we now know as French food and Cuisine is really Italian. Yes, I said Italian. For the food and cuisine of French was quite primitive and did not begin to form into what we now know as French Food and French Cuisine until Caterina Medici of the Noble Florentine Family of the Medici married the King of France and brought her Florentine Chefs with her to the French Court way back in the 15th Century. So there. Many dishes which most people think of as French in origin, like Duck ala Orange, Bechamel, and others, are really Italian. "So there!"
   Anyway, back to Italian-American food. Food and cuisines are constantly changing and evolving. This is how Florentine Chefs of Italy, went to France with the newly crowned French Queen who was of the Italian Peninsular in one Katherine Medici  and taught the French how to cook. Thus Italians immigrating to the United States in the early 20th Century brought their ingredients and techniques from mother Italy to cook the dishes from their homeland, with some modifications do to financial issues (being poor) and the unavailability of certain ingredients, and started forming what would one day be known as Italian-American  food (Cuisine).


"to be Continued"


by Daniel Bellino Zwicke