ITALIAN FOODIE: Giuseppe Quintarelli at Age 84 ... and Why "ROBERT CHADDERON is An ASSHOLE"

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Giuseppe Quintarelli at Age 84 ... and Why "ROBERT CHADDERON is An ASSHOLE"

Jan. 19, 2012

The Maestro of Amarone, Prince of Negar, the great Giuseppe Quintarelli died at his home in Negar, Italy on Sunday at the age of 84. A very sad day in the World of Italian Wine. Mr. Quintarelli was the Maestro of Amarone. Many would say he alone sat at the top of the Throne of this, one of Italy's greatest wines. Yes there are other great producers of the esteemed Amarone, producers such as Masi, Serego Alighieri, Bertani, Sergio Zenato, and others, but it was Giuseppe Quintarelli who was considered the King. These sentiments felt by his aforementioned peers, wine writers and publications, Sommeliers, collectors and all who were seriously into great Italian Wine.
I know a good many of the people making the most renowned Amarones in and around Lake Garda in the Veneto, people like Marilisa Allegrini, Sergio Zenato, the Basciani's of Masi and others. I never did have the good fortune to meet Mr. Giuseppe Quintarelli, though I drank his wonderful wines on numerous occasions and I did try to meet him one day. The day in question was one fine April day in 2001. It was right after the famed Italian Wine Exposition of Vinitaly (in Verona every April) had ended.
As is my custom when I attend Vinitaly, I go to verona and the show for 2 or 3 days, see my friends (Italian Wine Producers), Eat Drink Eat and Drink and make plans with some of these friends to visit them at their wine estates in Valpolicella Classico, Peimonte, Montalcino, and or Chianti Classico the days following the ending of Vinitaly. So the day directly after Vinitaly ended in 2001 my friend Jimmy and I went off to Lago De Garda to see some producers on their estates. We check out of our hotel in Verona (The Arena) went to a Salumeria and picked up a 6 pack of Aqua Mineral and Salami for the road. We got into the rented Scotto Fabia and made our way toward Lake Garda and the region of Valpolicell Classico, the region where they make Bardolino, Valpolicell, Amarone, and Valpolicella Recioto.
We pulled into the town of Garda directly on the lake and had breakfast in one of the large caffes on the lake. We discussed what we would do, and I said I just have to meet The King of Amarone Giuseppe Quintarelli. We would go to th town of Negar and look for him. I never met him as for several reasons, the biggest being that the man who represents him Robert Chadderon is one of the "Biggest Assholes in The World of Wine," and I'm not the only one who feels this way. Look in biography of Robert Parker "The Prince of Wine" ask anyone in the business and the will tell you the same "Robert Chadderon
Is An Asshole" plain and simple. Being in the business, at numerous tastings, Wine Luncheons and Dinners and doing business on a daily business, whenever you bring up Chadderon's name, eyes roll and you find out another who can't stand the guy.
So some of the reasons I had never met Mr. Quintarelli, and I know just about everyone in the Italian wine business, is mainly that Robert Chadderon imports imports and distributes Quintarelli Wines and as for myself and numerous others we do not do business with that Ass, Quintarelli or not.
So we were in Valpolicella Classico, and I tell my buddy Jimmy, we have to go to Negar, go to the Quintarelli Estate and meet the man. Well easier said than done. We finished our breakfast, went next door and bought some Speck and Garda Olive Oil (the most Northern produced olive oil in the World), we jumped in our rented car and it was off to Negar a few miles away. We got into the center of town. We asked one person after the next where Quintarelli was? Evryone said they didn't know. One after the other. We drove around and drove around. We drove up into the mountains. We came upon a rural bar way up into the mountains, clouds all around. We walked in. I'm sure we were probably the only Americans ever in this bar. In the sticks, a hamlet. We had a glass of Tocai each. We asked for Quintarelli, like tight lips hiding a Mafiosa know one knew. Ok, "we give up." Finding Quintarelli was not to be.
We drove to the estate of Serego Aligheri were they produce, in my mind thee best Amarones around. The estate is beautiful, we walked among the vines, toured the ancient Cellars which are one of the few left to have large Cherry Wood Cask, and the wine age just amazingly in these vessels. They are like no other wood at all. The pores of the wood are large than those of oak wood, thus the wine is able to age a little faster in the same amount of time. The wines are absolutely wonderful. We had a little tasting at the cellars, picked up a couple bottles each, then headed to the town of Bardolino. Earlier Jimmy asked me what was the best thing to eat while in Garda. I told him the only thing to get was some fresh lake trout (Trota). By the time we had driven all around Garda, wnet way up into the mountains, almost to Trentino, then went to Serego and back to the shores of Lake Garda we were both quite hungry and ready for our Trota, but it was not to be. When we got to Bardolino, we couldn't find one restaurant or trattoria open for business. We had to settle for Gelato at a Gelateria. There was to be no Trota in Bardolino. Jimmy was quite mad, so when we jumped in the car to drive down to Bologna and as we drove threw the town, Jimmy shouted out the window "No Trota." Yes, we couldn't find Quintarelli and there was "No Trota" as well.

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

The Great "GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI" Passes Away at Age 84

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ROCCO'S RESTAURANT CLOSING .. CARBONE and TORRISI to Take Over ., PRINCE STREET PIZZA OPENS

Prince Street Pizza opens today, where else but on Prince Street in Noho in the former Ray's Pizza. Thee "Original" Ray's Pizza that is. Sad to see it go after all these years, but it had slipped and the counter guys where amongst the worst in the city. You need cordial, upbeat, friendly guys serving up Pizza, and these guys were the opposite in every respect. In other words, "Horrible," which tends to put a damper on what should be a good pizza eating experience.

Yes, I'm sad to see this place go. I hate to see any long established beloved establishment go. Most times you lose a great place and nothing good replaces it. Worst of all, you might get another Bank, CVS, Duane Read, some sort of overpriced clothing boutique, or a dreaded Subway Sandwich Shop. Occasionally they might put in a equally desirable business such as a good cafe or good affordable restaurant (no overpriced Trendite place wanted). In the case of the sad closing of Ray's Pizza on Prince Street, another Pizzeria is opening, Prince Street Pizza. "Let's hope it's good."

In the equally sad case of one of Greenwich Villages last few remaining Old-School Italian Restaurant (VERY SAD), Rocco's on Sullivan Street will be going out of business soon. Fortunately something great will take its place, in all likelihood anyway as the team of Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone of Torris Italian Specialties fame is taking over the space, and you can be assured these guys with great taste, experience and know-how will not ruin the place. It will probably be even better with the Carbone/Torrisi touch which I like to describe as "Updated Old-School Italian-American." And these guys do a great job. Masters in their trade they are. They have just recently opened their second sucessful project in "Parm" next door to their original spot Torrisi, to booming sucess. The new spot in the former Rocco's on Sullivan Street (Mario Batali's first gig in New York) is sure to do the same. Which is to be wonderful, and a huge success.

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

ITALIAN AMERICAN ... WHAT IS IT?

There has long been a debate, fights, and Mud-Slinging in regards to Italian and Italian-American

food served in restaurants in New York and the rest of the U.S.. Culinary Snobs, people who "Think" they know what they are talking about and what not. I can set the record straight, being an

Italian-American who has been eating Italian and Italian-American food for more than forty years, who has been professional Chef and someone who has eaten all over Italy on some 15 trips to the great peninsular. In addition to studying Italian Food in Italy for some 25 years, I am constantly reading all sorts of articles , cookbooks, and historical facts on this subject, in addition to being one of the countries foremost authorities on Italian Wine.

Anyway, let me tell you. I myself was once a uninformed Food Snob who badmouthed and was slightly disdainful of unauthentic Italian food being served in restaurants all over the city. That's just in restaurants. Of course I Loved eating Sunday Sauce, Eggplant Parmigiano, and Meatballs that my aunts made at our frequent family get together s. And on the occasions that we weren't at one of the family's homes but in an Italian restaurant in Lodi or Garfield, I usually ordered Chicken or Veal Parmigiano. Yes I loved it, but these dishes, for me at the time (1985-1993) had their place, and it was not in the kitchen or on the plates of any serious Italian Restaurant in Manhattan.

Eventually as I learned more of the history of food in New York, Italy, and the World, I realized that there was actually a real true Italian-American Cuisine and that it was completely valid.

Do you realize that if you think there is not a true valid Italian-American Cuisine, then you also must concede that there is No True French Cuisine, because the origins of what we now know as French food and Cuisine is really Italian. Yes, I said Italian. For the food and cuisine of French was quite primitive and did not begin to form into what we now know as French Food and French Cuisine until Caterina Medici of the Noble Florentine Family of the Medici married the King of France and brought her Florentine Chefs with her to the French Court way back in the 15th Century. So there. Many dishes which most people think of as French in origin, like Duck ala Orange, Bechamel, and others, are really Italian. "So there!"

Anyway, back to Italian-American food. Food and cuisines are constantly changing and evolving. This is how Florentine Chefs of Italy, went to France with the newly crowned French Queen who was of the Italian Peninsular in one Katherine Medici and taught the French how to cook. Thus Italians immigrating to the United States in the early 20th Century brought their ingredients and techniques from mother Italy to cook the dishes from their homeland, with some modifications do to financial issues (being poor) and the unavailability of certain ingredients, and started forming what would one day be known as Italian-American food (Cuisine).

"to be Continued"

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

NEW YORK...BLEECKER STREET, GRENWICH VILLAGE'S BEST #1 DOLLAR A SLICE PIZZA ..PERCY"S PIZZA

The latest entry into the DOLLAR a SLICE PIZZA "PERCY'S PIZZA" on Dollar Slice is phenomenal. It's Top Notch and Superior to the likes of JOE'S PIZZA just a mere 200 feet away from this wonderful new establishment.

The Pizza at Percy's is just about absolute perfection. The way real pizza should be, perfect dough that is cooked to crisp perfection with just the right balance of tomato to cheese ratio. This slice is tasty, and at a Dollar a pop, one of New York's greatest culinary deals. And as for the other Buck a Slice guys, they just don't measure up. They're pretty good for a Dollar, but the slice at Percy's is Superior, even up against $2.75 a Slice joints like the famed Joe's Pizza just feet away. Percy's blows them away. They have a couple great Pizzaiolos, one from Sardegna, the other from Cairo of all places. Percy's is a simple unassuming place, that's nice and comfortable and serves up some of the Best Pizza in town, and at a Buck a Pop, you just can't beat it. I Love it, and hope it last.

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

A 1980 Vintage of COL Di'ORCIA BRUNELLO Holds Its Own... Tasty !!!!

Classic Tarry Tobacco nose for such an old wine, 30 years old. The wine was in great shape with a surprisingly dark garnet color with just a little bricking around the edges. Tar and Tobacco pervading in the mouth, still hinting of Violets and a good amount of fruit of particular Alcohol Soaked Cherries. The wine was most enjoyable and a pleasure to drink. It's probably a few years beyond its prime, but should still hold its own for another 5 years or so if you have a bottle that is in as good of shape as this.

Drunk at Southern Wines Grand tasting in conjunction with the Food Network, New York, September 30, 2011.

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

BORDEAUX BLEND from GREVE in CHIANTI Takes TOP PRIZE

Reporting from the Winebow Annual Grand Portfolio Tasting.

As usual a great event of a couple thousand fine wines from around the World. This guy always focuses primarily on the Italians with a few French, Ports, Champagne, and a few others thrown in here and there. The tasting did not disappoint and one big surprise from some friends in Greve, the Fiore Family led by father and famed wine maker Vittorio Fiore, son Jyuri (Vineyard Manager and co/Winemaker), and brother Roberto who was my first Wine-Salesman from Winebow when I had my Bacaro Bar Cichetti back in the late 90's. Well, I spotted Vittorio doing some tasting on his own and started up a little chat. Asking him how his sons Jyuri and Roberto are doing and he said his son Robert whom I haven't seen in years was at the tasting and was manning their table.

So I went over to the table with Vittorio and said hello to Roberto. Of course I tasted their famed Super Tuscan wine Il Carbionone. Awesome as always. I spotted another wine on the table and as I looked at it, it seemed to have a typical Bordeaux labeling to it. But I also noticed the Podere Scalette log on it so I knew it was one of the Fiore wines. After tasting the Il Carbionone I asked Roberto if that was a new wine the had. He said, "Yes it's a special project form Jyuri (brother who is vineyard manager and c0-winemaker along with father Vittorio). Roberto said that Jyuri was a bit tired working with just Sangiovese and wanted to make a Bordeaux Style wine. So the Fiores planted some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petitie Verdot. The wine, called Capogatto is make from equal parts of these 4 grapes. Well, let me tell you. The wine blew my mind. Awesome and perfect in every way. This wine had some nice flavor of all sorts of mixed berries both red and black and was in "Perfect Balance" of Acid, no harsh tannins, fruit flavor and nice medium weight. I loved it and told Roberto and Vittorio with all sincerity. And in the end, after tasting wine for another two hours, it was this wine that won top prize in my book for the best wine of the day, and I would give it a score of 94 on a 100 point scale. Absolutely marvelous.

And speaking of marvelous, I've just to mention the dessert wines of Fausto Maculan, who makes arguably, Italy's best dessert wines of all, and they are his specialty. When I came upon the Maculan table I spotted Fautos's daughter Angela, said hello and asked her if I could try the Brentino which has a special memory for me, as I always remmeber when my cousin Joe and I drank it one night back at the Hotel after a long day of flying from New York to Milano, grabbing a car at the airport and driving to Bardolino to spend the night before heading to Verona and Vinitaly the next day. Anyway, it was Joe's first trip to Vinitaly and our cousin Tony was along with us as well. After we checked into our hotel, we went out for lunch, then went to a nice litle Enoteca where we had a couple glasses of wine with some Salumi and cheese. In Italy, in a wine bar (Enoteca) you can buy bottles of wine to take home as well as consuming in the wine bar. Something you can not do in the states. This place had some really fine wine and Joe bought a bottle of Brentino, along with a bottle of Guado al Tasso, and a bottle of Sassicaia. After lunch and the wine bar, we all went back to the hotel to rest-up before going out to dinner. We had a nice dinner, went to another Enoteca after that and drank a great bottle of Amarone Brigaldara. "Awesome." We then went to some little cocktail lounge and had a couple drinks before heading back to the hotel.

We were back at the hotel for about 25 minutes when I heard a knock on my door. It was cousin Joe with a bottle of Brentino in hand. We popped the cork. We drank the Brentino and chatted about the day and the rest of the trip to come. It was just one of the great unplanned little time that you never forget. We had a great time drinking the Brentino and chatting at a hotel in Bardolino on the beautiful shores of Lake Garda 45 minutes from the Lovely little city of Verona. Just Great! So that's how I go off on a tangent about Brentino and drinking a bottle of the stuff in Bardolino at Lago de Garda.

After tasting the Brentino, which was nice, but could never taste as good as the one in the Valpolicella Classico area of Italy with cousin Joe. "No way!"

So I moved on to the renowned dessert wines of Fausto Maculan. I spot this wine Madoro and ask Angela if it's in the style of Recioto, the celebrated dessert wine of Valpolicella Classico and older brother of Amarone. Angelo said, yes it was in the same style but instead of Corvina, Rondenella, and Molinara, the Maculan "Madoro" is made from 80% Marzemina grapes and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. I tasted it and absolutely adored it. Near perfection. The wine had a bit of sweetness but not too much. Just the right amount in fact. It was rich and full, and in perfect balanced. I Loved it, and put this in my top 6 wines of the tasting along with the Capogatto from the Fiore's, a tasty Cote de Broilly from Chateau Thivin, Maculan Dindarello, and Maculan Torcoloto. All fabulous, outstanding wines. Wines to get excited about. Anyway, it was on to tasting the Maculan "Dindarello" made from 100% Moscato grapes. The wine was in perfect balance and tasting of Orange Blossoms, Honey, and Apricots. Yummy, to say the least as was the famed Maculan "Torcolato" made from 100% Vespaiola and tasting of Peaches, Honey, and Wild Flowers. Again, ummy and close to perfection. Wow!

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

PATSY'S and NEW YORK PIZZA

When it comes to PIZZA, and in particular the Best Pizza, New York leads America at the "Top of the List." No other place in the country comes close. "And that's all there is to it." That slop they make in Chicago is not and should "Never Be Called Pizza." It's Deep-Dish-Pie, just don't call it Pizza. It's not.

Now, back to New York, the Undisputed Heavyweight Champ of Pizza in the United States of America, and some the Best Pizza on the Planet, and that includes Italy.

New York has such renowned Pizzeria's as John's Pizzeria on Bleecker Stree in the Village, the great Tottono's on Neptune Avenue, Coney Island, Lombardi's, Gimaldi's, Ben's in Soho, and on and on. Let's not forget Patsy's, way up in East Harlem, a stones throw from the hardest table in New York, "Frankie No's" Raos.

Yes, and speaking of Patsy's coal oven Pizza that has been operating in East Harlem since 1933 when the neighborhood was primarily a Italian one at the time.

Plain and simple, Patsy's makes a pure and simple Neapolitan Pizza at the fairest of prices. Imagine a large Pizza Margherita for just $12.00 a Pop and a Slice will only set you back $1.75, at a time (2011) when most slices are $2.50 or $2.75 ..

Patsy's is a New York institution who has had such customers as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Tony Benett, Phil Rizzutto, Yogi Berra, jo DiMaggio and many others call Patsy's their favorite Pizza. Now top that.

yes Patsy's is waey up in East Harlem and quite a trip for Downtown Manhattanites, but it's definitely worth a trip every now and then . Patsy's, try it!

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

The NEGRONI

The Negroni! A cocktail most Americans do not know. To bad! It is so fine. Well not many know except among the more Sophisticated of our population. Even just a minute percentage of those who have traveled to its birthplace in Italy will even know of the cocktail. In this country, it is drank more often in the city of New York, a city with a higher "Sophisticate" ratio than most, but still only a few will know of this drink, the Negroni Cocktail.

So what it is it? Well its base is the highly popular aperitif bitter Campari, a Bitter-Sweet aperitif from Torino, Italy. The Negroni made of 1 0z. Cmapari, 1& 1/4 oz. Sweet Vermouth, 3/4 oz. Gin, over ice cubes in a Rocks Glass with a splash of Club Soda on top and garnished with a slice of Orange or Orange peel. Voila! The Negroni! Usually drunk as an aperitif before dinner in the early evening, but just as wonderful anytime of the afternoon, especially Alfresco, or late into the evening for that matter.

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke